Bipolar mania and the high femme: Adventures in Sephora
Posted in Bipolar Disorder, Depression, Gender Identity, Identity, Lifestyle Changes, Mental Illness, Personal Stories, Poverty, Relationships, Schizoaffective Disorder, Self-Acceptance By Andrea Lambert On June 13, 2012I was bipolar for ten years, and while rifling through the sexual identity coatrack I found I was most comfortable as a bisexual femme. In the gay bars of 2002 this was the look that got me most often ignored or disregarded. A decade later in a different city, I amped the look up to high femme, in a sense queering it, by making the femininity into camp, a form of drag or masquerade. With a blonde bouffant, pencil skirt, purple lipstick and platform heels, I could not actually be serious about being sexy for the boys, I scared them.
The woman I am married to is coming into a genderqueer identity that involves butch attire. For a party last week she went shopping for suspenders an hour before it began because, for her, the marking of butch identity by party-appropriate formalwear (khaki britches, suspenders, a white dress shirt and porkpie with feather), was extremely important. I understand this sort of obsession, with my mugs of lipstick/glosses, primers/BB creams, eyeliners/mascaras, anti-aging/moisturizers in a forest on the dresser. I pulled on a strapless dress and six inch heels, put a flower in my hair and an octopus around my neck. Walking into the party, the two of us proclaimed our lesbian identity clearly in our sartorial choices.
In a sense, a part of my femme identity exists in being a foil, a counterpart to her. We are each queerer in each other’s presence, our relationship reinforcing our sexual identity. Similarly, a femme without a butch is often mistaken for a straight girl, which is quite irritating. To be de-gayed when individual is demoralizing.
The intersection of my femme identity with my bipolar one had an unexpected click. Depressed, I rarely got out of bed or got dressed. Manic! Dressing became a costume party of leopard print, mismatched jewelry and all the makeup. This was fine, but the problem came with the bipolar tendency towards overspending.
Women in American culture are socialized to buy more and more clothing and beauty products then they will ever need. The argument has been made, bought, sold and paid for, and yet throughout my life I have been a completely helpless consumer. I have had horrible credit card problems in the past. Now, I always run through my entire SSDI check, and when I think about what I spent my money on this month, the answer is always the same: makeup and beer… and of course rent and food and toilet paper.
Before the Schizoaffective Disorder hit and my bipolar disorder was in full swing, the mania would send me reeling to the MAC counter, where my high femme identity seemed to justify buying beautiful things. With age, and time, I’ve learned to tone it down a bit. Now I’m CVS’s bitch. Poverty is a harsh teacher, but since I’ve been unable to work and the student loan defaulted and the reality of spending the rest of my life on Food Stamps has really hit me, I’ve had to differentiate between the sexual identity gender presentation and the costs of maintaining that look. The bottle-blonde had to go, it was breaking off at the roots. Choosing between a $7 medication copay and a bottle of silver toner, I’d rather have the pills.
This tempering of femme glamour has made me think more about the other aspects of what the identity means to me. Being queer, being attracted to women, is clearly more important than being attracted to Lancôme.
Now that I am Schizoaffective and my mind moves more towards psychosis, I dream of red mascara with red lips, green eye shadow, rivers of makeup smoothed and contoured across the skin in unlikely colors. Waking from that dream this morning, I realized that so much of my joy in makeup was in play.
About Author
Andrea Lambert
Andrea Lambert is the author of Jet Set Desolate (Future Fiction London, 2009) Lorazepam & the Valley of Skin: Extrapolations on Los Angeles / 730910-2155 (valeveil, 2009) and the chapbook G(u)ilt (Lost Angelene, 2011). CalArts MFA. Her work has appeared in Entropy, HTMLGiant, 3:AM Magazine, The Fanzine, Queer Mental Health, and elsewhere. Artist working in mixed media oils and collage. She lives in Hollywood with her cat.
My cousin has complained to me about being relegated to the identity of the straight friend at the lesbian bar. She’s pegged as “too pretty to be a lesbian” (Hah!) and I guess she just “looks” straight. As a result, women never hit on her at the bars, and when she makes the move, they often disregard her as experimenting. To her, it’s one of the most frustrating experiences a night’s worth of beer (or, in her case, orange vodka with club soda) can buy.
I, for better or worse, dress the straight femme more often than not. With my long dark blonde hair, height, and piercing blue eyes, if I get hit on by anyone, it’s almost assured to be a man, and that’s not something I really want. A trans guy here and there is fine, but that’s because they’re not as scuzzy as most cis men in NYC. A few have gotten a blush from me, and certainly help my confidence, but most aren’t worth my or anyone’s time.
Being trans and dressing the part of the straight femme makes it very difficult for me to find someone, be it for a makeout session, a hookup, or a partner. Moreover, I tend not to be into the super butch girls, and it seems like femmes have been trained to desire a butch. If the other issues weren’t a killer, being trans is most assuredly the death of me.
My point, I think (I usually start these things without much of one), is that you have found an external identity that shows off and compliments your internal one. As you pointed out, these external identities come at a cost, however. As I become more comfortable in my internal identity and my ability to pass (yes, I’m one of THOSE trans girls), I start to contemplate getting slim and fit, finding a nice pair of jeans and a t-shirt that matches my “Don’t give a damn” attitude, and cut off all my long beautiful hair and dye the remainder some outrageous pink color.
Maybe I still have some growing to do, though. 🙂